May 08 2013

Adobe Photoshop CS is Dead…RIP

I received the news early yesterday morning from fellow HDR buddy, Nick Marzinski, of Trapping Light.  Adobe is releasing Photoshop CS7, or what would be CS 7, on the Creative Cloud only.  It was only a matter of time,  RIP CS :(

CS RIP 

“So what does that mean for me?”  You may be wondering.

The Adobe Creative Cloud allows you to pay a monthly fee for access to every Creative Suite application.  The fee is $49.99 per month, which really is not bad at all for access to the entire Suite.  That would be a yearly rate of ~$600.00.  Much less than upgrading the entire suite every year or so!

That would be great if I were a Creative Suite user, however I am just a Photoshop guy.  I do not need Illustrator, or InDesign to do what I do, just Photoshop.

 

So what does this mean for Photoshop users?

If you do not need the entire Creative Suite, just the power of Adobe Photoshop, you can sign up for the Photoshop Creative Cloud (CC).  The fee is $19.99 monthly @ a yearly rate of ~$240.00.  At first glance you may be saying… “Ouch”…

However, the cost to upgrade Photoshop last year was $299.99!  Adobe has been putting out new updates almost yearly making that a $299.99 annual hit to the wallet.  Not to mention the initial cost of the software at anywhere from $700-$1000.

In Conclusion…

I know the masses are flooding to the scene in furious droves.  However, I think this will be good.   With the Creative Cloud, Adobe will release updates as soon as they are ready.  No more waiting 18-24 months for the next innovation in the clone stamp or paint bucket tool (paint bucket tool, does anyone use that?).

PROS:

  • This is great news for anyone interested in Photoshop who did not want to put up that initial $700-$1000.  Access to Photoshop for $20 per month… I want my initial 50 months in back-pay :)
  • I kind of like the idea of putting my payment on auto pilot and only having to spend $20 a month as opposed to the huge chunk of $300 every year to 18 months.
  • I like that I can synchronize my settings across multiple machines.  That will be nice, especially for teaching purposes.
  • I believe this will be easier to write off on taxes as a business expense under “Subscription Services” without having to bother with software depreciation.  However, I am no tax professional and that really only applies to those that are running a business.

CONS:

  • I don’t like being tied to “Cloud Crap”.  Call me old fashioned, but I like the idea of a stand alone, away from the internet type that doesn’t auto link my life to my phone, email, computer, tablet, and any other device I may be leaving out.
  • Not sure how this will effect Topaz and other software plug-ins, that will be interesting to see.

Also check out Trapping Light, Nick has some great insight too.

What are your thoughts?  

 

 

 

May 06 2013

Understanding Crop Factor

The crop factor of your camera is an important aspect of photography to take heed to.  You see, before I purchased a Full Frame camera I knew of the crop factor, I knew how it worked, I even felt I understood it well enough to discuss it.  However, I had never really had the opportunity to really look at Crop Factor from an analytic point of view because I had never shot with a Full Frame camera .

The Crop Factor in your camera is the ratio of the size of your sensor to that of 35mm film.  To obtain the crop factor of your sensor you would divide the diagonal a 35mm frame by the diagonal of your image sensor.  The resulting number would be your crop factor.

You may be wondering, how the heck does this relate to me, my camera, and my gear?

Well that resulting crop factor acts as a multiplier to the focal length of your lens.  The math has already been done for you by your camera manufacturer, so if you fear math there is no need to run!  Search for the sensor type in your camera manual or do a Google search for the camera model that you own.  You can use the chart below to reference your sensor with its crop factor.

Sensor Size

Crop Factor Magnification

Full Frame

1.0x

APS-H

1.3x

APS-C, Nikon

1.5x

APS-C, Canon

1.6x

Faveon

1.7x

4/3rds

2.0x

So now that you have your crop factor, multiply the focal length of the lens you are using by the crop factor of your sensor.  For my Olympus gear, any lens I own should be multiplied by 2 to accurately depict the true focal length I am operating with.  For instance, the 14-54 mm lens I commonly walked around with is actually a 28-108 mm lens when compared to 35mm or a Full Frame DSLR.

In the example below I took a picture of the exact same location, once with the Olympus E-30 a 4/3rds sensor with a crop factor of 2.  I had a 14-54 mm lens attached zoomed in to 24 mm.

I took the second picture with the Canon EOS 6D a Full Frame sensor with a crop factor of 1.0 (no change from 35 mm).  I had the 24-105 mm lens attached with zoomed in to 24 mm.  Both cameras were set at 24 mm, but the crop factor on the Oly was a true 48mm focal length due to the crop factor.

Crop-Factor-Example 1

You can see how a crop sensor is at a disadvantage on the wide angle side of the spectrum as you have to have a very low focal length to achieve a true wide angle shot.

However, on the telephoto side of the spectrum the crop factor works in your favor.  A 70-300 mm lens on the Canon 6D is 70-300 mm.  That same lens would be a 140-600 mm lens on the Oly!  Check out the images below for another comparison example.

Canon-300mmoly-300-mm

So now that your have an understanding of crop factor should you run out and buy a Full Frame camera? Not necessarily, you can still make great pictures with a crop sensor. I used my Olympus E-30 for nearly 4 years and made some great images. A crop factor should not be looked at negatively, it is just another aspect of digital photography to be aware of. Maybe your next purchase will be a full frame camera after understanding crop factor.

May 03 2013

Halos and HDR, Episode 2: The Photoshop Fix

Last weeks tutorial focused on avoiding the nasty halo byproduct of HDR tone mapping.  This week I am tackling how to combat them in post processing.  I use 2 methods to show you how to defeat them.

The first method will use a Curves Adjustment Layer to actually invite the halo in a bit more.  This is not the best way to defeat them as it is more of a, “If You Can’t Beat Em’ Join Em” mentality, but it works.

The second method will cover how you can do a faux HDR with the a single source image to blend them together.

HalosNo-Halos

May 01 2013

Canon 24-105 f/4.0 L USM Review

I have recently taken several photos with the Canon 24-105 on the 6D after switching from the Olympus 14-54 as my go to lens on the E-30.  At first glance I was thinking, “Man this new Canon lens is going to be quite the toy for me.”  It is monstrous with a front lens element of 77 mm and looks so sweet attached to the Canon 6D.  I found out relatively quickly that looks are not everything.

I would like to get the “bad” stuff out of the way first before progressing on to the wonderful things it can do.  I know that is a backwards approach to the normal EverydayHDR style of review you have gotten used to.

24-105mm

4 Gig SD Card for reference because it is cooler than a quarter!

The Bad:

    • The 24-105 mm lens has some pretty awful chromatic aberrations.  Chromatic Aberrations are those magenta/green fringe lines that follow the contour of objects that go from an area of high to low contrast abruptly.  You can really see it on the tree limbs and the tire treads in the image below.  Chromatic aberrations are one of those “Nature of the Beast” type things that are very easily fixed in post processing, I cover 3 ways you can do so in my eBook Exploring HDR.  I was not expecting them to be this evident in a lens with such a remarkable reputation.Chrom-Abs
    • The lens vignetting is very clear with the 24-105 mm lens as well.  Lens  vignetting occurs on the outside of your photos usually in the corners and the outside edges.  It is an area of darker gradation than the rest of the photo and is often desired in post processing.  I do it a lot in post processing, however, I do not always want it in every photograph!  The 24-105 mm produces some very evident vignetting at the widest focal length, 24 mm.  Again, it is an issue that is very easily taken care of using post processing software, but it is another characteristic I would not have suspected from a lens with such a stellar reputation.
BeforeAfter

The Good:

  • I really enjoy the f/4.0 minimum aperture through all focal lengths.  That constant low minimum aperture is very helpful when fully extended to 105 mm.
  • The 24-105 mm is tack sharp!  I have not seen clarity quite like this, especially with HDR.  I merged 7 exposures for the image seen below and can nearly count the blades of grass it came out so sharp.  It is much more evident in the High Res version.
    IMG_0237_38_39_40_41_42_43_tonemapped
  • Very smooth operation.  Both the focusing ring and the zoom ring glide when you adjust them.  I did not come across any sticking or abrupt movement, this very important when you are trying to hone in on finite details.
  • Extremely fast and quiet auto focusing even in low light.
  • Great coverage!  A very nice Wide Angle when coupled with a Full Frame body.  It also boasts a sturdy 105 mm on the zoom end making it a go-to walk around lens that will have you drooling over its versatility and capabilities.

The Bottom Line:

Regardless of the vignetting and chromatic aberrations this lens is phenomenal on the detail side of the house.  I have seen clarity and detail in my photos I have only dreamed of.  I would highly recommend it to anyone looking to upgrade their lens to an extremely versatile wide angle lens.

 

Apr 29 2013

Made the Switch to Canon

Last week I discussed the possibility of making the switch from the Olympus E-30 to the Canon 6D.  Well I did it.  I purchased it through Amazon because I could not pass up the deal on the 70-300mm lens with it.  They were running a $300 off the 70-300mm promotion with the purchase of a 6D.  How convenient for me!

It was a huge jump, it reminded me of the time I switched from Adobe Photoshop CS (yeah CS 1) to CS5 in late 2010.  The cameras really are night and day, Full Frame sensor vs 4/3rds crop, but I had no idea I would see such a dramatic difference in color and clarity.  The Canon 6D really is a piece of work!

I have not had a whole lot of time to run it through the gamut yet, however, I did take her out for a spin last weekend.  I wanted to test her HDR capabilities and boy was I impressed!  2,3,5, or 7 exposures at 1/3, 2/3 or 1 whole EV stop at up to +/-8 EV’s.  Going into it I was thinking that would be a nightmare to manage, but Canon made it easy as pie!

I put the Olympus up to the challenge with the Canon by photographing the same scene from the same vantage point with both cameras.  Each camera had the same Aperture value, the same focus point, and the same amount of exposures for HDR (5 Exposures @ +/-1 EV).  I knew the Olympus wouldn’t stand a chance against it, after all it is 5 year old technology.  However, for grins I took the shots and ran them through the exact same tone mapping and  post processing actions.  Here are the results.

Olympus HDR

Olympus-HDR

Canon HDR

Canon-HDR

It may be difficult to notice any extreme difference based on the pictures above.  However, when looking at a detailed view zoomed to 100% there is a striking difference in the detail.

Olympus HDR Detail

Olympus-HDR-Detail

Canon HDR Detail

Canon-HDR-Detail

The detail in the sheet metal siding is phenomenal in the Canon HDR version.  I was about 50 yards away from the building and it still picked up that detail.  I am impressed!  Does this mean you should run out and buy a 6D, absolutely not, but when the time is right to upgrade your gear it may not be a bad choice!

Over the next month or so I will be conducting some extensive reviews of the Canon 6D as well as the 24-105mm and 70-300mm lens I purchased it with.

IMG_0237_38_39_40_41_42_43_tonemapped

Apr 26 2013

Halos and HDR, Episode 1: Avoiding Them Altogether

I was recently asked to do a tutorial on how I fix Halos in Photoshop.  I could very easily have started there, however, I feel it is important to understand the culprits of the halos in Photomatix.  Your best defense against a halo in post processing is to avoid them altogether.

Episode 1 of Halos and HDR will cover how you can avoid the haloing altogether to achieve a great HDR image.  I also polish up the HDR tone mapped photo in Adobe Camera Raw.

HalosAvoid-Halos

 

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